So after seeing the hesitation from Max about doing a "good" paint job on a rifle I figured I'd so up a step by step since I was getting ready to Duracoat my Remy 7 in .223.
1) You will need your Duracoat (Lauer Custom Weaponry $16.95 per 4oz w/ hardener), flattener (LCW $3.25) if you don't want a shine when your done, Mineral Spirits and an airbrush.
2) Disassemble the weapon as far as you can. On my bolt guns I remove the bolt & trigger. I prefer to leave the scope on as I don't want the layer of Duracoat between the mount and receiver.
3) Use either the Duracoat degreaser, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or electric motor cleaner. Make sure it states on the bottle that there's no residue left including lubricants. Blast off every nook and cranny of the gun. There can not be any hint of grease or oil anywhere.
4) Using ELECTRICAL TAPE mask off anything you don't want painted. I've tried the blue masking tape and the Duracoat bleeds under it. While doing this I wear Latex gloves so I don't get any skin oil on the gun.
5) You can either spray it flat or hang the barreled action. I prefer to hang it so nothing touches the fresh paint.
6) Mix your paint. I've found 1T of Duracoat, 1/4t of hardener and 1/4t of flattener comes out pretty good and completely finishes a whole rifle. Do not exceed 10% of the flattener.
6) Spray away. You can to a point overcoat what you've already sprayed just make sure it isn't glossy/wet when you do. It dries very quickly once laid on.
7) Wait 2-3 hrs for either a second coat or a second color. I usually do 2 coats of everything.
8) If you have a composite stock you can blast it off with the degreaser and spray it too. I personally don't use Duracoat on the stock but you can if you want. I use Rustoleum spatter paint. You can get it in almost and OD green and Dark Brown. I overcoat with spray satin varnish.
I won't bother with pics of my 7-08 since I did it in Parkerized Black. This is a Remington Model Seven, came from the factory with a black composite stock and full stainless. I made a crude cardboard cutout of it and using markers colored it basically what I wanted. Propped it up in the undergrowth around my house and used bino's to look for it. I started out intending to so it all as the barrel/action/scope are but changed that when I noticed the stock stuck out like a sore thumb. Darkened the stock and everything blended perfectly. The undergrowth around here is very dark for the first 10" or so then lightens up for the remainder, hence the 2 different shades. For the Duracoat I used Mirage Light Brown and CADPAT Light Green.
Overall from the first disassembly screw turned to the final reassembly screw turned it took me 7 hrs over 2 days.
Also, please disregard the mess in the background. I'm trying to sort and pack what goes with me to TX in the spring and my wife's already there so everyone should feel lucky there isn't beer cans, pizza boxes and strippers in the background.
Duracoat, just for Max
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I'm getting quicker. The AR took me all tolled about 4 hrs. Here's some pics of it. The one with the flash on makes it appear brighter than it actually is.
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Darn!!I was hoping to see the strippers!!
Nice job.I'm thinking that light green is abit bright though.Matt
I want to die in my sleep just like my Grandpa,not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car. ""I'm the one you go to when something absolutely has to go"Kaaboommm"!!!!""
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The CADPAT light green is an exact match for the upper 12" or so of our undergrowth and also the same color as Aspen leaves. While it's not as bright as it appears in pic #2 it's not quite OD green either.
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Pretty sweet. I'm impressed what you were able to do without investing in a bunch of stuff. The friend I have who does duracoat work has a spray rig, a bead blaster, and an oven. So I've usually viewd it as something that would take some serious investment. But I don't have an excuse not to give it a try. I'll have to figure out what to try it on...
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You can do it to whatever you want. Got a cheapo Chinese pocket knife? Mask it off and spray it. I did a couple of knife handles and an crappy shot out .22LR before I attempted the good stuff. You don't need to bake Duracoat, it will cure for handling within about 4 hrs, then about 2 weeks for use, then about a month for full strength. If you decide to give it a go and have any questions about it just PM me. Just remember DON'T BRUSH IT!! I tried it and talk about hideous, awful, nasty....
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Nice job.I'm thinking that light green is abit bright though.Matt