SHTF provisional life support plan

(preliminary brain storming, CAT 5)

LAND
1 - 5 acres, area dependent upon individual needs, security perimeter, proximity to threats, and life support capacity.

HOUSE
Superinsulated house: R30+ walls, R40+ roof,
[Ideal - concrete and insulation sandwich wall and rooftop]
http://www.thermomass.com/

Shell shape - cube for rectilinear wall construction, hemisphere for curved wall construction
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ring_life/message/47
In single family or small volume structures, the multilevel cube outperforms the hemisphere / dome. Based on surface area consumed by the structure, and the usable space within, the multilevel cube is "green".

However, in areas where an expectation of hurricane force winds is probable, a round shape is recommended. (The "roundness" can be created by flat wall segments, arranged in a circle.)
http://www.deltechomes.com/

Interior movable insulated shutters (R20+) for all windows
[* each pane of glass is roughly equivalent to R1, a dual pane window is R2, even with best high tech gas seals, and expensive thermal coatings, barely reaches R4. Far better to install 2" thick foam shutters for use during climate extremes. ]

Exterior security shutters, metal or ferrocement

Airlocks to conditioned space, with outward opening doors - except where climate / conditions dictate otherwise,

Natural seasonal shading / cooling via plants, vines, planters on sunfacing sides. Perimeter balconies could be integrated with the placement of planters, vines, trellises, arbors.
[* There may be an issue with wildfire risks if walls are not fire resistant, and insufficient buffer space between shade plants and at-risk structural elements. A wide balcony may resolve that issue.]
[* * Those who are enamored by the need to display the house's architecture may balk at the greenery obscuring the view. However, a house that is nonfunctional, no matter how attractive, is a waste of money, materials, and effort.]

Bahama Shutters:
In Florida, it is a common sight to see these slatted shutters. They are hinged at the top, and the bottom pivots outward. The slats are oriented so that the high angle sun is blocked while horizontal view is unimpeded. The material, size and shape of the slats are varied. They may be fabricated to withstand winds and flying debris. One drawback is the necessity to open and close the window to extend the shutter, if no mechanical crank is available.

Window Design:
In contradiction to current window design, windows should be fixed, only used for admitting light, and enjoying the view. Operable windows are ineffective ventilators (middle of the wall). Operable windows situated as emergency exits become burglar's entrances. They impede privacy. The typical double hung window is a compromised appliance that is usually inadequate as illumination, as a ventilator it is in the wrong place (try to drain a bathtub with the drain half way up the side), is leaky, usually misplaced, and then "dressed" with curtains, shades, blinds, and other accessories that block the light and view. In short, modern practice obscures the function of the window.
Modern architectural practice places a heat duct beneath every window to combat the wintry heat sink that a window creates in the wall. Not unlike trying to fill a tub with the drain open, it is a wasteful effort.
A simple, frugal solution : for private areas, windows should be no lower than 4 ft. 8 in. from the floor. Add insulated shutters to control heat transfer during climate extremes, or to be used at night. For emergency egress, install a hatch or door, or have an integrated fire escape.
For ventilation, use a floor and a ceiling vent, integrated into the home's ventilation system, so that hot stale air can completely escape the room, and the house.

Special case :
IF one is building a compact multistory structure, and wishes to conveniently move oversized / heavy objects to upper floors, one might design operable exterior doors (to nowhere) that would allow an item to be hoisted into the upper level without the need to navigate a stairway or remove a window. Furniture deliverers will bless you. Piano movers will name their children after you.

Interior Design Concerns:
Universal access, the buzz word for wide doorways, bathroom hand rails, and the like should be implemented into your shelter. It would be tragic to be forced to leave one's homestead because it could not accommodate needs of those who are in need.

OPERATIONS
Energy efficient appliances :
Superinsulated refrigerator / freezer
http://www.sunfrost.com/refrigerator_models.html
(* or install regular refrigerator / freezer inside insulated sheath, vent waste heat outside of controlled environment )

Front loading washer
Top budget front-loader: Frigidaire GLTF2940F

Gas clothes dryer (if cheap electricity is unavailable)
[place outside of conditioned space if in a hot/humid climate]
/ or /
Solar powered clothes dryer (clothesline)

Safety features :
Fire - fire resistant exterior (Concrete stress skin, ferrocement stress skin, Terne metal sheathing)
http://www.follansbeeroofing.com/

Fire suppression sprinklers:
http://www.toolbase.org/Design-Construc ... sign-Guide

Fire escapes via concrete (or ferrocement) stairway, exterior hatchways / doors

Integrate water bed as part of fire safety planning

Encase flammable materials to reduce fire hazard : Paper books stored within non-flammable enclosures (metal or gypsum or concrete).

Windstorm - flying debris resistant shell (2-3 inches concrete); ferrocement over foam core stress skin window shutters; outward opening steel clad door, sublevel storm refuge

Flood - water resistant concrete / stone construction, multilevel, watertight capability, winch / elevator to raise items above flood water

Micro critters:
Insect - Borax or boracic acid treated foam core insulation, screened air vents

Mold / Mildew control:
http://www.mold-control-on-a-budget.com ... ts/43.html
http://www.wecheckair.com/mould_control.htm
Surface alkalinity and radiation also play a role in the viability of mold growth. Most fungi require the pH of the substrate to remain within the bounds of about 5 to 8 (i.e., neutral to slightly acidic). This sensitivity to alkalinity is the reason that lime washes ("whitewash"), with a high pH of 10 to 13, were used in the past to control fungal growth. Some modern anti-fungal coatings use stabilized lime with a high pH as their primary ingredient to control mold growth.
(*Mediterranean whitewashed houses give evidence to the effectiveness of mold control in a humid climate)



ALTERNATIVES TO UTILITIES
Solar hot water heater - may be integrated with concentrating lens / photovoltaic power panels
(* Batch solar hot water heater is the most simple, but may require draining if at risk of freezing)
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Wa ... eating.htm
http://www.green-trust.org/2000/solar/s ... efault.htm
http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/y ... opic=12850

CAVEAT - solar hot water heaters can cause scalding. Incorporate with a tankless water heater with built in temperature sensor, designed specifically for solar systems. If scalding water is detected, the heater adds COLD water to reduce the temperature to desired range.
http://www.homepower.com/article/?file= ... g74_Puffer
http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tankless.htm
http://www.takagi.com/?p=home.php&page_id=1
http://www.plumbingworld.com/scaldprotection.html
(In addition, make sure that your shower fixtures are fitted with anti-scald valves, also known as automatic pressure compensating valves, that balance pressure when demand on cold / hot water causes a change in the mix.)


Dry composting toilet (See: Humanure)
http://weblife.org/humanure/default.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting

Rainwater collector (with roof washer / diverter) to cistern w/ hand pump
http://www.rainwatercollection.com/rain ... ories.html
http://www.nsf.org/consumer/rainwater_c ... m=WaterTre
http://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Rainwate ... ion-System

Roof top water tower partial pressurizer (though not full pressure from a pump, it is better than no pressure when the power fails)

Grey water recycling - wetland, water hyacinths, etc,
http://www.oasisdesign.net/greywater/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greywater

Wind turbine generator - small scale wind farm with Hornet miniturbines
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/hornetwindturbine.htm

Photovoltaic solar power panels - still a bit expensive. However, if one can do a grid intertie, the elimination of costly batteries can cut the price.
http://www.ecomafia.com/solutions/solar.html
http://giuli.com/gridsys/
http://www.greenliving.co.uk/Articles/s ... ystem.html



Hydrogen gas via electrolysis:
Hydrogen gas liberated from water by electrolysis is viable, but currently uneconomical. May become important source of fuel if that changes. Hydrogen can be burned, or used in a fuel cell to generate electricity.

Biofuel:
http://www.futurepundit.com/archives/002881.html
Biofuel is a net energy loser, based on consumption of fossil fuels used to produce it.
Fossil fuels are indirectly used by agriculture, transportation, and production.
(* However, if not dependent on fossil fuels, and powered by solar / wind or other means, may be viable.)
Alcohol fermentation of plant material (Solar distiller)
Anaerobic digestion of animal waste for biogas (methane)
(* Needs to be processed before use in most gas appliances)

Recycled vegetable oil (BioDiesel)
Dependent upon access to cheap / free waste oil. This may change as time goes on.

Passive dehumidifier http://www.semcoinc.com/products/energy ... tworks.php
(*Pinnacle primary ventilation system)

Natural ventilation - thermal chimney effect - integrate open stairwell, draw down sniffer ducts, with air to air heat exchanger
http://www.mrslim.com/Products/technolo ... yID=628296,
(Mitsubishi Lossnay Energy Recovery Ventilators)

Natural lighting - seasonal dependent access to direct solar input, and to indirect solar input
[] horizontal reflector : interior - mirror diverts sunlight to ceiling; exterior - can be mirror, or water feature, which will add a ripple to the reflected light. If the house has an integrated planting system for seasonal shade, take it into account when designing horizontal light reflectors.
(** for frugal houses with minimal windows, the addition of a horizontal reflector can increase the light intensity entering the structure. The size and placement can be designed so as to divert direct light in summer when the sun is high, and introduce light when sun is low.)
(*** Most skylights are counter productive. They admit hot summer sun and become energy leaks in winter.)

Bathroom ceiling vent is a necessity; a window is a poor ventilator for a bathroom. Can't use it in winter. Can't use it if air conditioner is operating in summer.

CONSERVATION
In winter, in a superinsulated house, waste heat from appliances and occupants may be enough to heat the house to a comfortable level. In cold times where there is no power, thus no waste heat from appliances, an emergency heating system may be necessary. But in most cases, a fireplace is superfluous, and a net energy waster.

Keeping cool, in a superinsulated house, requires a different strategy than a typical over ventilated house in a hot / humid climate. The fact that when hot moist air enters a cool controlled environment, humidity levels rise, condensation appears, and mold and mildew thrive. Dehumidifying the air is one solution. (See passive dehumidifier).
(In my own experience in a moderate climate, the sublevel basement was very cool in summer, but needed a dehumidifier lest everything sprout green fuzzies.)
Another strategy is to pre-chill the air, and drain the condensate away, then allow the air to enter the conditioned space. Some old designs relied on sublevel tunnels, that sloped away from the house, to keep dampness from building up. A modern variation is called "Cool tubes". However, if utilized in a very hot climate (ex: Florida), they tend to heat the subsoil to ambient temperature and cease to operate.
http://www.zeroenergydesign.com/Passive ... oling.html
http://www.mb-soft.com/solar/saving.html
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/06 ... onin_1.php


VARIATIONS
Water supply - low pressure, high volume plumbing (1 inch supply pipe) and suitable faucets for sink, tub, shower, appliances

12 V DC wiring - if you have access to RV appliances

SURVIVAL
House integration with food production - greenhouse, orchards, bushes, perennials, vine trellis, roof top gardening, aquaculture (fish, crustaceans, water plants), small livestock - chickens, ducks, geese, rabbits
Aeroponics:
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2006/0 ... t_v11.html
http://projects.greenmangardens.net/con ... 25/39/1/1/

http://www.buildeazy.com/greenhouse.html
http://greenmachine.analogmedium.com/20 ... house.html
http://www.plumeria101.com/howto.html

Best small scale sprouter
http://www.sproutpeople.com/devices/ez/easysprout.html


Defensible features -
Soss invisible hinges on exterior doors, shutters, hatches
http://www.soss.com/

Layered obstructions, walls, water hazards;
Sublevel emergency storm shelter - supply cache, air filtration, etc., etc.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fallout_shelter

I actually REALLY like the OP's efforts here. To try and identify potential issues within a homestead/BoL and then look for resolutions.

What about things like wood stoves or rocket mass heaters?

Larger water storage and filtration systems?

Great OP! :)

that's some really good info with great links! thanks.

What about hot water creation and storage?

If people have any ideas they have looked at for their OWN situations, post em. :)

Good post Oz, been a while Welcome back!!

Crap didn't look at the date, oh well good post anyways

Good post