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Car Battery Repair / Lead Acid Battery Repair / revive dead

How to fix or maintain batteries.
What batteries work.
Make your own batteries.
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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 4:45 am
TheOldCrankyWorkshop wrote:
This is bound to happen to you, if it hasn't already.
You've got an old car battery that won't work. It's not shorted - it just won't work.
A test for continuity across the terminals shows open or damn close; hook it to a charger and the ammeter shows zero - charged.
Odds are it is sulfated.
When a lead acid battery discharges, the sulfuric acid reacts with the lead in the plates to form "lead sulfate".
Lead sulfate likes to crystallize and build up on metal surfaces - like lead plates.
The lead sulfate buildup blocks the electrical conduction between the plates.
So you have a battery that has no charge and won't take a charge.
"So how am I supposed to clean that crap out of there?"
Well, you can't take a battery apart without destroying it (believe me - I've tried).
And even if you could, you couldn't get the plates adequately clean - they're porus.
It has to be done chemically.
Fortunately, there's a chemical that can be simply added to the battery that can clear off the lead sulfate buildup, and not need to be removed.
That chemical is magnesium sulfate.
"Where the hell can I get something like that?!"
It's easier to find than you might think.
Regular white, unscented Epsom Salt = Magnesium Sulfate.

Don't just spoon it in though here's what you do:
    Put some clean dry Epsom Salt into a clean dry cup.
    "For a regular-sized battery, I generally use around ten teaspoons".
    Heat up some distilled water to near boiling.
    Add it to the Epsom Salt. (Just enough to dissolve most of it - you want a thick liquid)
    Stir the hell out of it - it's hard to make it all dissolve sometimes.
    Then try to get an equal amount into each cell of the battery.
    Be sure to top off the battery if it needs it.
    Hook a regular charger (not a "smart charger"), and set it for high amps. Mines 10 and 2, so I go with 10.
    At first, the ammeter will read 'zero' or 'charged'. Just Wait.
    In a while (how long depends on the amount of sulfation), the needle will creep up to full current (10 amps for me).
    Then switch over to low current (2 amps around here), until the battery is fully charged.
    Discharge the battery with an old spare headlight, until the light glows dull yellow.
    Then charge it on low current again. This helps the magnesium sulfate eat away the lead sulfate.
    It ought to work now.

This trick will work for nine out of ten sulfated batteries.
But it only works a few times - five times per battery at most.
Still you'll save a lot of money knowing this trick, and that's what it's all about.
If your battery is shorted though this trick won't help you.




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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 6:13 am
:gs:
I was looking for some instruction on battery testing, but it appears simple enough.
You can also test your alternator, battery, by disconnecting the battery - while the engine is running. If the engine dies you have a bad alternater, stays running, bad battery.
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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 10:24 am
Good Post Johnny, I have 2 batteries I need to treat. Another tip is for rechargable batteries. I do this on NiCad batteries.
DO NOT
I REPEAT
DO NOT
Do this to LiPo or NiMh, they explode. Don't ask.
When you have a NiCad pack that will not hold charge hit it with a slightly higher voltage than it puts out, I have 8.4V packs for my RC airplanes and hitting them with 12V 2A revives them. They get what I call whiskers on the inside of the cells which stops them from charging/discharging completely and this sudden hit of voltage knocks the whiskers off and gives them a new lease on life. I have a male plug that fits into the female plug on the pack with 2 bare wire sticking out, connect the (-) lead from the power source to the (-) on the pack then just quickly brush the (+) lead from the power source to the (+) lead on the battery. Done.

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 8:16 pm
Baking powder(not soda),mixed with boiling water will make the slurry to add to each cell.Matt
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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 8:26 pm
lumpy39us wrote::gs:
I was looking for some instruction on battery testing, but it appears simple enough.
You can also test your alternator, battery, by disconnecting the battery - while the engine is running. If the engine dies you have a bad alternater, stays running, bad battery.


And if the wife honks the horn and makes you drop the (+) battery cable you just disconnected you now have a bad alternator too.

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 10:52 pm
lumpy39us wrote::gs:
I was looking for some instruction on battery testing, but it appears simple enough.
You can also test your alternator, battery, by disconnecting the battery - while the engine is running. If the engine dies you have a bad alternater, stays running, bad battery.


Yup...chances are real good you'll have a bad alternator, along with a fried computer pulling this stunt on a newer vehicle. This was OK back in the 50's and 60's when voltage regulators were mechanical and generators were lucky to put out more than 30 amps, but is a MAJOR no-no on an electronically-controlled vehicle with an alternator that will easily put out over 100 amps.

Remember that some of the newer vehicles have many control units...and none of them are cheap!
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 4:33 am
tech wrote:
Remember that some of the newer vehicles have many control units...and none of them are cheap!



Exactly why you should not jump start someone if your car is newer than 2000 or so.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:53 am
Johnny wrote:
tech wrote:
Remember that some of the newer vehicles have many control units...and none of them are cheap!



Exactly why you should not jump start someone if your car is newer than 2000 or so.



Jump starting isn't as dangerous as some think...if executed properly. Most newer vehicles have dedicated jump start points, use them. Also, charge the battery well, and disconnect one jumper cable lead when you crank the dead car. This breaks the circuit between vehicles, loading their battery and electrical system, not yours. I had a '90 model Dodge pickup and trashed a battery jumpstarting my '77 Macho Power Wagon(takes a little juice to turn a 440 over). Man I miss those 2 trucks.

A gas-powered DC welder can also be used, with the generator lock engaged and test the voltage out of your welding leads. Use a large screwdriver to connect your stinger to your hot jumper lead if it won't engage. Buy the best quality jumper cables you can find...I just had a $60 set stolen while on vacation(left them in the bed of my truck at home).
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:02 pm
I've always hooked the running car up to the dead one and smoked a cig. When the cig was done, I shut down the running car and then tied to start the dead one, leaving the jumper cables connected. Usually works the first time being both batteries are connected with no chance of blowing anything up on the charging car, being it's not running. After the "dead" one starts, simply remove the jumpers..

The myth of reving the charging vehicle to get the other one to start will cause more damage than anything! A little time waiting for the batteries to equalize is worth its weight in gold. Jumped many vehicles this way and never blowed anything up yet..
"If it Don't, I'll Always Think it Shoulda.."

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:28 pm
all ways take the negtive (-) off first and you will not hurt the battery's and electrical system's


Good post tho

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