I acquired another ax and had to make a sheath for it. This one will ride in the truck so I made it a bit larger than usual so it can't come off easily.

Step 1) Make a pattern. Trace out your ax/hatchet head. Figure out how much excess you need, is you ax head thin or thick? If it's thin you won't need much excess but if it's thick like mine is you will needs some extra material to mold it. I gave half the ax head thickness on the top in extra plus another 3/8" for the stitching on the top and front.



Step 2) trace out you pattern onto the leather. I use 6oz/7oz leather because it forms well. According to the "leatherworking guru's" you should always make the retaining strap as part of the sheath for aesthetic reasons. I do not do this because I found the strap is the first thing to fail and being able to just remove and replace it makes things easier.


Step 3) Start cutting. There are special leather scissors but I use a cutting board and razor knife.


Step 4) Using a grooving tool cut your groove along the top and front for the stitching. Go slow so you don't overcut where the 2 grooves meet.



Step 4) Using an overstitch tool create the divots where you'll punch you stitching holes. Pay attention to where on the wheel you start so the L & R sides match.




Step 5) Punch your holes using a stitching punch, punch each hole where there is a mark from the overstitch tool. When you complete 1 side count your holes on each side and make sure you punch the same number on the other one. The stitching punch is on the right, rotary punch on the left.


Step 6) Using the rotary punch punch 5/32 holes in each side for the snap attachment and chicago fastener.


Step 7) Set the snap. I use line 24 stainless snaps and a universal snap setter kit.



Step 8) Cut your thread and put your needles on. This sheath used 5' of thread with about 6" left over at the end. When you put the needle on the thread leave about 1/2" sticking out the needle eye then take the pointed end of the needle and push it through the thread about 1.5" up. Pull it through and adjust how it sits in the eye by pulling on either the body or tag end of the thread. By doing this you don't have to worry about the thread pulling out of the eye.




Step 9) Start stitching. There are also more instructions here on SHTF http://www.shtfmilitia.com/post30172.html?hilit=sewing#p30172 You will insert the needle through both pieces of leather at an end. Pull it through so you have equal amounts on each side. Take a needle and push it through the next hole then take the other needle and push it through the same hole but from the opposite side and pull tight. Continue this until your done and your hands are sore and bloody. When your to the end run the thread back through the holes about 4 stitches and cut off the excess.




Step 10) Take the overstitch tool and run it over your stitching. This helps to seat the stitches tighter into the leather.

Step 11) Do a dry fit. It will not fit properly but you can get an idea as to whether or not your pattern was good.



Step 12) Put a plastic bag over the head or your ax. Fill the sink with water and throw the sheath into the water. Let it soak until it's nice ans soft. This may take 2 min or 20 minutes. Every piece of leather is different. Once it's softened enough to mold, remove from water and press it onto the ax head. Using your fingers mold it to the contours of the ax head. Once your happy with the fit take a couple scraps of leather and put them over the sheath as pads for the clamps. If you don't do this you will end up with clamp jaw marks permanently in the leather. Make sure you put the leather pads flesh side up.





Step 13) It is going to take about 24hrs to dry so now let's get the retaining strap made. I freehand it so there's no pattern. Mine is 3/4" wide and I cut it about 1" longer than necessary then trim to fit.




Step 14) Your sheath is dry and your ready to finish the edges. Using either a belt sander or french skiver trim the edges so they're perfectly even then if you have an edge beveler (I use the skiver) bevel all the edges 45 degrees. Taking off only about 1/16".


Step 15) Using a sponge and bone folder polish the edges. Dampen the edges of the leather and rub the bone folder rapidly back and forth along the edge, you will see the edge getting shiny as the fibers are molded down. You must keep them wet for this to work properly.

Step 16) Attach the retaining strap with a Chicago Fastener.


Step 17) Seal the leather. I didn't take pics of this, it's rather self explanatory. I use Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene.

Done.







If anyone has any questions or problems feel free to PM or email me and I'll walk you through it.
Good Luck and have fun!

Excellent! Been a few years since i made anything from leather, and you appear to have done all the cute tricks to make it easy and nice looking.

Thanks guys. As I said, if anyone has any question or needs more tutoring in leatherwork I'd be happy to help.

Here's a few other things I've made lately.
Knife sheath, some of you have seen already.



arm guard that I tooled, I hate the cheesy nylon ones they have at the archery shops.


Holster for my Buckmark, the tooling is the Browning emblem.

I like them I like them. It's a very handy skill for people to learn and also can save lots of money by not having to buy what you can make yourself.

And yet more info for those interested.
6oz-7oz double shoulder averages around $60 but lasts a long time

Basic Tools:
Harness Needles size 0
Artificial Sinew or Waxed Thread, I prefer the Sinew
Stitching Awl
Adjustable Groover
Overstitch Wheel
Spring Punch (Stitching Punch)
Rotary Punch
Edge Beveler
French Skiver
Bone Folder
Edge Slicker
Snap Setting Kit
Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene to seal the leather (I prefer Fiebing's but there are others)
Tragacanth Gum to give the edges a shine

Optional:
dye, all colors of the rainbow are available. I again prefer Fiebing's because it's oil based rather than water based)
Edge Dye if you want the edges black or some other color than the leather or dye color
Snaps, you can get standard line 24 snaps, segma snaps or glove snaps depending upon the type of project
Rivets
Chicago Fasteners
Thonging Chisel if your going to do more buckskin work
Hand Sewing Punch if your going to be working with Deer or Elk hide.

I won't add the tools for doing carving/tooling. The list is big. If anyone is interested in it I can add it later and it's not something that is necessary for a good outcome.

great post. thanks on all the tips and instructions, well done!

ron