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LEHR 25cc weed eater Leaking Propane / Reset diaphragm

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:38 pm
So i have a LEHR 25 CC 4-Stroke Curved-Shaft Propane Powered Eco Trimmer, and the stupid thing was leaking propane. So i am going to show you how to reset the diaphragm.


What happened was i was out of town at work ( yea unusual for anyone who knows me LOL, Im always out of town)
And Angelz is my GF and she is pretty independent (even if she is a blond) so she was reading that you have to change the oil every 10 hours of run time.
She changed the oil and when she filled it back up CORRECTLY to the fill line, the manufacturer FAILED to mention the DIP stick is wrong, so you have to fill JUST below FILL line or, the back pressure causes the DIAPHRAGM of the carburetor to pop out of the float hole, thus causing the float to stick open causing PROPANE LEAKAGE.

I have posted some pictures to show you the process in RESETTING the DIAPHRAGM.

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LEHR 25 CC 4-Stroke Curved-Shaft Propane Powered Eco Trimmer

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Carburetor


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Taking apart the diaphragm


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watch the spring when Taking apart the diaphragm


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Use a small flat head or something like it to take off the diaphragm


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This is the major part for the gas stop on the valve that piece has to be in the hole of the diaphragm


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Make sure that pin from stop goes back in hole.
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty.. Thomas Jefferson

Image

SOPA Summary http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c112:H.R.3261:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:27 am
Can you say PITA. I made sure and bought my saws before the 4 stroke law took effect. I've spent way too much time screwing with 4 strokes, I'll stick with my little 2 strokes. I'm waiting to meet the first person with a 4 stroke saw when I'm cutting wood and watch them twitch when I'm outcutting them 4:1, I highly doubt they'll ever make a 4 stroke that can run with a 2. My little 38cc limber pulls 11,500rpm's and I got a buddy's Husqvarna weed eater turning 10,000. That thing'll blow grass 20' with ease. So the next question would be, what possessed you to buy it?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 4:15 am
The propane :D I refill the small bottles from the 20# tanks.
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty.. Thomas Jefferson

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SOPA Summary http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c112:H.R.3261:

PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:10 pm
Hi John,

Thank you very much for fixing the pictures issue.

For last 3 pictures I still not quite undersand.
1) Use a small flat head or something like it to take off the diaphragm.
Do I need to take off the black piece behind the silver piece?

2) Make sure that pin from stop goes back in hole.
I assue the pin is behind the black piece? And where is the hole?

Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:06 pm
Can2000. Not sure about that particular model, but from my experience with regulators the silver part that you can see being lifted with the flat blade and the rubber part are often glued together. (If the diaphragm is perforated you usually, though not always, have to replace both rubber and metal as one.) On the underside of the rubber diaphragm there is a piece of metal projecting down, and it is this that has the hole in it. The third photo shows the 'pin' (lever) located in that hole. (When the diaphragm is sucked down it pushes the lever down.)
When in doubt, apply rule ·223 or ·308 -- unless you have a more preferred calibre.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:32 pm
Thanks Bidadisndat and John, I have tried the way as below link shows, doesnt work. Tomorrow I will try the procedure from this thread. thanks a lot guys!

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cac ... Jw21eJlfsA

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:46 am
can2000 wrote:Hi John,

Thank you very much for fixing the pictures issue.

For last 3 pictures I still not quite undersand.
1) Use a small flat head or something like it to take off the diaphragm.
Do I need to take off the black piece behind the silver piece?

2) Make sure that pin from stop goes back in hole.
I assue the pin is behind the black piece? And where is the hole?

Thanks again!



hi can,

Yes in removing the diaphragm that is actually the whole leaking issue, use the small flat head to get between the metal silver and the diaphragm WITH OUT puncturing it of course, then slowly pull it upward then you will see the part of the metal with a hole in it that is ATTACHED to the diaphragm then theres a PIN that moves up and down that is attached to the carb that pin is what came out of the whole on mine and all you have to do is put the pin back in the hole on the diaphragm, think of carburettor floats the float would be the diaphragm and the gas shut off needle that the floats move would be that pin attached to carb.

See the image here
Image
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty.. Thomas Jefferson

Image

SOPA Summary http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c112:H.R.3261:

PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:17 pm
Hi Johnny, it turns out that my model is little bit different than yours.
Image


The web site tells us to always store the unit horizontally. I am confused if it means the whole trimmer unit horizontally or the unit for the engine oil horizontally? Where is the leak for the engine oil? I assumed it is the bolt of the engine oil container. Am I right?

store position 1:
Image



store position 2:
Image


Thanks again!


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