i will be building a couple of savonius rotor wind generators to supplement my solar and diesel generator when funds loosen up a bit. the savonius rotor is a vertical axis windmill that has high torque but a slow turning speed. the high torque means you can gear it for high speed generators and still start producing in wind speeds below 5 mph. they're less efficient than traditional horizontal axis windmills when wind direction is constant but more efficient when wind comes from multiple directions as there's no need to spool down and turn into a gust like traditional mills.

this one's being used to pump water:

Po Po,

I've been looking into wind, and expect to make the jump into wind power next summer. I don't expect it to be the "energizer bunny" that some folks do, but I get enough wind in the evenings that I expect it to keep my battery bank topped off.

I'm very close to buying a solar system that has a grid tie in so I can be connected to the grid or totally off with the flip of a switch (and with a generator backup). Does anyone know of a downside to having that kind of a setup? I'd like to continue "sharing" from the grid as long as it's up and then disconnect if it goes down.

Idaho Liberty wrote:I'm very close to buying a solar system that has a grid tie in so I can be connected to the grid or totally off with the flip of a switch (and with a generator backup). Does anyone know of a downside to having that kind of a setup? I'd like to continue "sharing" from the grid as long as it's up and then disconnect if it goes down.

You need to check your state laws and local power company regulations before embarking on a grid-tied system. Some places have some odd regs. Don't forget to ask about any incentives, rebates or tax offsets that you may qualify for, both on the state and federal levels.

Also keep in mind that you'll need a battery bank for those off-grid times when you don't want to run the genset.

Finally, start switching to more economical lights and appliances. Not only will you save on your bill, but will be able to maintain power longer when disconnected.

Thanks for the feedback - and Semper Fi!

I live in Idaho which is a "net use" state so I understand that I can take from or give back to the grid for the same $$ per kwh. The system does have an 8-battery back up (I just forgot to mention that part) but I've been trying to get a straight answer from the mfg company about the batteries. They wanted to sell me very expensive batteries that are $385 each - they're called Trojan L16RE-B 6 V. But a different solar company told me that I could buy 6V "golf cart" batteries at Sam's Club for $80 each. Does it make a difference which I get?

Idaho Liberty wrote: They wanted to sell me very expensive batteries that are $385 each - they're called Trojan L16RE-B 6 V. But a different solar company told me that I could buy 6V "golf cart" batteries at Sam's Club for $80 each. Does it make a difference which I get?

If you asked this question on a board dedicated to golf carts you would probably start a month long flame war. It is my understanding that Trojan may have invented the golf cart battery but I have not personally looked up their patents to see if that is true. In many applications you actually get what you pay for and Trojan has a very good name/reputation and a steep price to match.

My problem is different than yours (heat in FL and considerable usage with deep discharges vs your cooler temperatures and regulated discharges to no less than half potential) and so my experiences may differ from yours. But, I have found that when I bought better quality batteries they lasted much longer than cheap ones. For example the wall mart deep-cycle batteries (I need five at a time for my battery banks in my boat) they last me 2 years before they start to fail. Whereas if I go up one level of quality to an interstate deep cycle I get 4 years. I have friends who use the more expensive brands of deep cycles (like Trojan, Rolls, etc.) and get up to seven years.