Oh hell, good call nw, yea, weld caps on the ends, drill 2 holes, tap both for appropriate parts, install an inflator valve in one, and a compressor fitting in the other. Make yourself a hose that will reach at least the farthest tire on your vehicle, more is better. Find a compressor that will fill to big time pressure, and you got yourself a portable compressor storage tank. Put a gauge in a third hole if you want to monitor pressure in storage. Good call, we use to do it in Indiana. How sweet would it be to pull up to someone having a bad day with a flat tire and in minutes, they are moving.

Or better yet, you catch a thorn off road, pull out your plug kit, YES I have one in my truck and on both of my atvs, air that puppy back up and off you go. BUT, I keep large tire sized can of fix a flat on the atvs. Also have a 12v air pump on one bike, but damn is it slow, fix a flat is faster.

Hadn't thought about that NW, good idea. I've heard of folks doing that now that I think about it. Would eliminate some parts (compressor) and cause another (Bumper) to do double duty. Could, with the tubing on the bumper, add in to that the brush guard, since it would be done with tubing anyhow. Right behind the bumper, put in a winch mount, and set the bumper up so enough space to get the cable through and there we go. Simple, sturdy, and more importantly, cheaper than plated ones I would guess. Could do the same with the rear, tubes and hitch reciever. Dreadstalker mentioned once I think about making the winch mount set up with a basket so I can move the winch to the back if needed, so I can pull myself out backwards if need be.

Spare tire spot.... Currently it's set up like, I assume all ford trucks/suv's are these days, with it under the truck on a cable that needs cranked down. Not very good for departure angle from an obstical. But, then, I'm not setting the truck up for super hardcore off roading, and if I DID do that, it's easy just to drop the tire off and put it in the bed and strap it down I guess.

I ALSO looked at prices for body lifts. The are about $180 give or take, and if I did that, the 33's would up my ground clearance by a bit, but the lift would give me room for the tires. This might be a better solution, economically, allowing me to complete my truck/BOV and let me use the $1700 for the lift (Superlift makes the only suspesion lifts for my truck, and the've got it at a rediculous price) on other preps.

BTW, any ideas about tires? Terrain is mountains to lowlands and due to the ammount of rain, we got quite a bit of muddy surfaces. I HAD been thinking of Goodrich Krawlers, but also looking at ProComp M/t's. The procomps run about $213 each, Nitto has trai grappler m/t's that I really like but they're expensive as hell. Not bothering with that, unless the damn tires last for longer than most off road tires do. Those will run about $300. Kelly Safari tires are also not bad, my dad uses them. I just don't get the metric/inches difference. If I want 33x12.5 tires, guess I'd better do the damn math LOL.

Found the easy button:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=53

Link To Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXEWWTpit_A&feature=player_embedded
The late, great Ford Crown Vic...
(Ford just ended production after 32 years)

PM, +1 on the body lift. Much more bang for the buck. I'm not sure it will allow you to clear 33's, you might have to trim fenders or your front bumper to prevent rubbing in a hard flex situation. Even if the manufacturer says it will, if your front springs have sagged from years of rough roads, they may rub. Regardless, you need to check out your cab mounts when you do it. Perfect time to replace them, and to reinforce your cab if you deem it necessary.

A friend and I installed a body lift on his '94 chevy 1500 some years ago, and as time went on, the cab got over stressed and started cracking around the mounts. Anyhow, we took some 1/2" plate and reinforced stuff, got the psi down with the plates we added. Been a couple years since the repair, and no further problems. If you go that route, you need to consider whether or not your brake lines, clutch line/linkage, shifter(s), wiring, etc. will need changed to accomodate the body lift. Sometimes holes for shifters to pass through have to be enlarged, sometimes brake/clutch lines or hoses have to be replaced(remember, you're moving the master cylinders away from the frame). You don't want your wiring harnesses to be stretched to the max, that's asking for wiring failures. Radiator/trans cooler hoses can be a problem, too, as the radiator mounts to the core support...which is lifted up in respect to the engine. I'm not trying to patronize you, or to discourage you, but I want you to know that it's not always a simple modification when you install a body lift. You may not have to deal with any of these things, either. These are just potential issues to examine before you start.

The truck only leaves the yard for 2 reasons...work(hauling scrap or firewood), or playing in the woods. It really lives a rough life, but he doesn't abuse it. Just something to consider when you get around to it.

If you still plan to use the truck daily, you should see about how strict your inspections are. They're completely and totally illegal, but it's not enforced here. I have built them, and inspection stations don't seem to care. That's here, though. We can also run trucks with no catalytic converters or mufflers, if you find the right inspection station.

Anyhow, the 4.0 is one of the greatest engines ford produced(short the 300 straight six and perhaps the 289) IMO, and if it's a 5-speed, you've got a nearly bulletproof truck to start with. I've seen in excess of 2 tons of scrap metal hauled on the bed of a 2003 ranger(4.0 5 speed 4wd), and pull through our mountains as if it were carrying a load of foam peanuts . Not just once, either. We took turns hauling loads, about twice a month usually, and my v8 dodge(89 5.2 auto 4wd) didn't perform as well as his little ranger on the same run.

Thanx 3/4 it's an automatic. I'll keep the wiring and hoses in mind, that's important. Thanx for the info. As for the engine, man I've used and abused that for the last 10 years and have NEVER had an issue. Sometimes crappy maintanance as well. Thing just keeps goin. It's been from Washington, lived through Montana winters and bumpy, washboard dirt roads I lived on, went all the way down to Misssissippi, across Texas through to California and up the coast, and logging roads and back and forth to work, hauling dirt, rocks, and firewood. It's got 130k miles on it and no problems whatsoever. Still runs strong. Tranny is fine too. Just a great truck and I don't regret it a bit. M wife a few years back had offered to let me get a new truck, so I could have a nice new truck like she has. I asked why? Mine's paid for and runs just fine. Don't need another.

As for tires, I decided Toyo, Procomp, or something of the sort MT's will do just fine for what I'm doing. It won't be a hardcore off roader. As for body lifts, they are legal here. Still have emissions and such but, everything else goes. As for the rubbing, I thought maybe cut out flares will do the trick, open it up some for more room. When I have the new bumper fabbed, when it gets mounted, I'll just have the guy make sure it will fit with the tires for flexing. Between the two it should do OK. Will deffinately deal with the wiring and hoses, or look at it to make sure it will do fine. Cab mounts, you're right, would be a good time for that. May as well, it'll keep things going for longer. Better to replace them now than wait until it's needed even more than it does now.

WT lol, that's awsome. Vic did just fine!

Doc G wrote:How sweet would it be to pull up to someone having a bad day with a flat tire and in minutes, they are moving.

Or better yet, you catch a thorn off road, pull out your plug kit, YES I have one in my truck and on both of my atvs, air that puppy back up and off you go. BUT, I keep large tire sized can of fix a flat on the atvs. Also have a 12v air pump on one bike, but damn is it slow, fix a flat is faster.

If you have on-board air it eases your mind a bit to know that if you need to let out tire pressure for traction that you can refill when you get past the obstacles

I always add a second battery to my rigs that are not already so equipped. If you have the space to do so, I would recommend it and add a battery isolator like this http://www.jcwhitney.com/2-battery-system-battery-isolators/p2022601.jcwx


If you have room for a 3rd battery and can keep it charged up too.......then you have a great option for emergency welding!



Link To Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tHJ0NSjZnM



NW Outdoors